Duty Amp Amplifier
How can this amplifier be with these subs?
Power Acoustik Class D Monoblock Amplifier A1000DB View larger and other pictures Power Acoustik A1000DB Product ID: a1000db | Product SKU: 6188 Click here to buy other Power Acoustik car audio products. Product Description: Class D Monoblock 450W amplifier @ 4 Ohm 800W RMS @ 2 Ohm RMS Max: 1000W Hi Speed Digital Circuitry fully regulated PWM Power Supply Four Way Protection Circuit 1 Ohm Stable Stereo synchronization bridge variable low pass 50Hz-150Hz Variable Subsonic Filter 15Hz-40Hz Variable Subwoofer EQ @ 45Hz Phase Switch 0-180 Remote Dash Mount Low Level Gain Control with Cable Frequency Response: 15 Hz to 150 Hz S / N Ratio: 100 dB THD: 0.5% System Distress Indicator input sensitivity: 200mv-8v Dual Mono Speaker Output Connectors Gold-plated Heavy Duty Power & Speaker Terminals Dimensions: L 10.5 "W 11" H 2.3 "Hifonics Plus two 10" subs brutus
If alternates are two coils of 2 ohms, it will work well, the way they wire them is that they wire in a series to get a 4 ohm load and then wire them out together on a bridge parallel to get 2 ohm load in your amp then give your Subs 400 watts rms each. That will work well because hifonic Gross submarines can handle up to 500 watts RMS each. To see exactly how connect these exercises below, click on the link then takes you to a wiring diagram of the woofer.
I need a new car audio system, need help.?
I have a Mercury Cougar 2001. Mainly I need more bass. Shopping online and I have no idea of what the numbers mean. What kind of amp you'd need or subwoofer. I dont even know what comes standard on the car. I know I have limited funds and I'm not lookin for anything too fancy, but I dont even know where to start. This is the theme found online, and do not know what that means if its good or not: Features Amplifier: 2-Channel High Performance Amplifier Variable Bass Boost 0-18 dB @ 45 Hz RCA Line Inputs and Outputs Thermal / Short / Overlaod Circuit Protection Variable HP / LP Crossover Adjustable Input Sensitivity Full MOSFET Circuitry Subwoofer + Box (VBB210) Features: 5 / 8 "high-quality MDF construction handling 800 watts peak power 400 watts RMS Power Handling heavy duty industrial carpet heavy-duty terminal block Digitally Computer Tuned Subwoofer for this venue. Poly Coated Pulp Cone Subwoofer Box dimensions: 22.5 "x 11.75"
Haha so we have a rookie in our hands ehh? Here are some basic indicators car audio: 1. Car audio consists of 3 basic categories of items: Head Units (these are CD players, radios, etc. that is on your board dash), speakers (including full-range speakers, components and subwoofers) and amplifiers. 2. The power shown in RMS (root Mean Square ') and max. Never use full power because this amount of energy that never be realized. When every time I read a figure can always be sure you are in RMS. 3. Typical full-range speakers are what they say they are producing the sounds (almost) full range of all audio (20 Hz to 20,000 Hz). Subwoofers only produce sounds below a certain level, generally between 200-300 Hz, therefore, that answers the first question - if you want the bass, a subwoofer is the answer. 4. Amplifiers. They receive HU signal and expand before being put on the speaker or subwoofer. You will need a subwoofer amplifier to run any good speakers and great sound quality only when are powered by an amplifier. I suggest you watch a good quality 10 "or 12" subwoofer (JBL is good, Sony is bad), which is valued at around 200-300W RMS, and combine this with a 1-channel amplifier rated very similar, for example energy level 200-300W RMS x 1 channel. The specifications you have provided does not show the power amplifiers (this is the most important!). He says the sub is 400W RMS so it should work perfectly with a 400w RMS x 1 channel amplifier. Do you intend upgrade your speakers too? In addition, you may have to put a new Head Unit into the power amplifier (and therefore sub).
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